My Love remembered fondly having seen Roy Rogers, with his famous horse, Trigger, in a big arena in Albuquerque when she was about ten years old; but at this juncture in our trip, a roast beef sandwich from one of his national chain of restaurants was giving her a seriously upset stomach.
Our
daily routine in the Big Trip in terms of meals was to arise for granola bars,
breakfast bars, and Tang at breakfast;
eat a meal out, generally fast food, at lunchtime; then pull out our Coleman grill to make
supper wherever we lay our heads on any given night.
So
it was that we stopped at a Roy Rogers Roast Beef restaurant in Maryland at
noon one day in late October 1975. We
were just about to pull into a campground for the evening, approximately 6:30
PM, when the messages from Barbara’s stomach issued forth ever more persistently. To paraphrase a much-ridiculed line from a 19th
century Gothic novel, for Barbara,
“it
was an intestinally dark and stormy night.”
I
took care of her all night long, then, just as she was settling into a sleep and
feeling easier at dawn, for me in turn
“it
was a digestively turbulent morning.”
But
I tend just to move into a psycho-emotional mode somewhere between stoicism and
denial, so by late morning I climbed into the driver’s seat with Barbara, now
doing much better, at front passenger, and we drove to a motel on the outskirts
of the capital; this was a rare
residential occurrence for us in our year with the van as our home, but we
decided we had better settle into full recovery mode, with ready access to a
very hot shower and a very convenient bathroom.
We
went that whole day, a Saturday, without food, until about 8:00 PM that same
day our stomachs signaled that the intestinal coast was clear. I took Barbara’s order, went across to a
Wendy’s across the street, and returned to the room. We proceeded to have a very good time,
munching the welcome hamburgers, meat ordered well done--- that's, make sure now, very well done--- as we hoped for the
best and watched the then-very-new Saturday Night Live.
We
had hoped for the best, our stomachs cooperated, we were cheered by the usual skits and in this edition of the now iconic show the jokes of guest host Robert
Kline.
We
were on to Washington for the addition of more material to our bulging mental
files.
…………………………………………………………………………………….
From
Acadia National Park we had continued our trek through New England, viewing the
Vanderbilt and other rich-folk homes in Providence, Rhode Island; visiting a wealth of historical sites in Massachusetts: Pilgrim-arriving Plymouth, witch-burning Salem,
and Puritan-symbolizing churches. We
thoroughly investigated Thoreau-Emerson-haunted Concord, with storied Unitarian
church and Pond of some note. We had spent two days in the Boston area,
canvassing Harvard and MIT and the multiple historical and cultural sites in Boston,
resting at a hillside park, discussing the conventional tale told of the
American Revolution along with the virulent anti-busing demonstrations that had
recently taken place in the city.
We
had swung over to Pennsylvania, where in Philadelphia the tale is also told,
and where so much of the cognitively dissonant history of the United States is
revealed, demonstrated starkly in a Constitution that sought to secure the
blessings of liberty and to maintain slavery.
We had roamed the University of Pennsylvania, added Harrisburg to our
list of state capitals visited, and took the little train touring through a Disney-like
presentation of the Hershey plant in the town of the same name, where chocolate-loving
Barbara delighted in her free Coca-Cola filled with the sweetened confection. We
had witnessed the urban revival of Pittsburgh, rising from its status as a pit
of a city toward a renewal symbolized by the spruced-up confluence of Three
Rivers. We had visited another capital
at Delaware’s Dover and continued our investigation of a story mingling myth,
legend, and history at Baltimore, so that thereafter we would be able to
oh,
say, that we had seen
Fort
McKinley
at
the dawn’s early light,
then
later,
at
the twilight’s last gleaming,
the
urban blight
daily
growing worse
in
the slums
at
the city’s urban core.
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